FALKLAND ISLANDS AND ANTARCTICA: BETWEEN BIRD WATCHING AND DREAMY LANDSCAPES

For bird watchers, a trip to Antarctica and the Falkland Islands represents one of the most cherished dreams, but also one of the most difficult to achieve. Getting to know the species that inhabit these remote and spectacular environments, despite the obstacles that arise along the way—from the harsh weather to complex logistics—is an adventure in itself. The emotions experienced while contemplating the wildlife that inhabits these lands make every effort worthwhile, turning this journey into an unforgettable experience for any bird lover.

Fulfilling this dream was what motivated Jorge La Grotteria and me to find a way to achieve it. After years of planning and searching, we found an option that would take us to both destinations: a cruise whose itinerary included Argentina, Uruguay, Chile, the Falkland Islands, and the Antarctic Peninsula. Although this ship was not the conventional choice for wildlife observation in those areas, we, as bird watchers, enjoyed every species that appeared along the way. This writing aims to be a brief review of the journey and a recounting of the most notable bird species we recorded throughout the trip.

The journey began on February 16, 2025, from the Cruise Terminal in Buenos Aires. We set sail at sunset and, through the Río de La Plata, headed towards Montevideo, Uruguay, where we arrived on February 17. There, we were greeted by the Southern Black-backed Gulls (Larus dominicanus) at the port, and as we disembarked, walking through the Old Port to the waterfront, we observed common local birds such as the Red-breasted Blackbird (Turdus rufiventris), Domestic Pigeons (Columba livia), Cormorants (Nannopterum brasilianus), and Brown-hooded Gulls (Larus maculipennis). At sunset, we set sail from Montevideo towards Puerto Madryn, Argentina.

The next day, February 18, was a day of navigation through the Argentine Sea, so the excitement of being able to observe the first pelagic birds of the trip motivated us to head out on deck early in the morning. The sea was calm and the temperature pleasant. Surprisingly, the route was very close to the coast, allowing us to observe the most common species for a pelagic outing: Black-browed Albatrosses (Ardenna gravis), White-chinned Petrels (Procellaria aequinoctialis), Thin-billed Albatrosses (Thalassarche chlororhynchos), Black-browed Albatrosses (Thalassarche melanophris), among others.

We arrived in Puerto Madryn on February 19. It was a hot and sunny day, and we only explored the waterfront. Dozens of South American Terns (Sterna hirundinacea) greeted us at the port, and along the coast, we found Southern Black-backed Gulls, Brown-hooded Gulls, and Imperial Cormorants (Leucocarbo atriceps). At the end of the day, we set sail again heading south towards Punta Arenas, Chile.

February 20 was a full day of navigation heading south. We once again skirted the Argentine coasts, with a calm sea, but the temperatures were slightly lower in accordance with the latitudes. While the species were the same as those observed during the coastal route on February 18, other species that we found exciting to observe appeared, such as the Southern Royal Albatross (Diomedea epomophora) and the first Thin-billed Prions (Pachyptila belcheri).

We arrived in Punta Arenas on February 21. The day started very early, navigating the landscape of the Strait of Magellan among Cormorants and Gulls. By mid-morning, we reached the port and decided to take an excursion to Magdalena Island. This island is a great spot for any bird watcher, especially those who love penguins, as it is famous for hosting one of the largest colonies of Magellanic Penguins (Spheniscus magellanicus), which nest there between September and March. It has a trail where you can walk for an hour among the penguins, observing them up close, creating a wonderful experience. In addition to the penguins, other seabirds nest on the island, such as Southern Black-backed Gulls, Chilean Skuas (Catharacta chilensis), and Imperial Cormorants, and smaller birds like White-rumped Sandpipers (Calidris fuscicollis), Cinnamon-breasted Plovers (Charadrius modestus), Short-billed Miner (Geositta antarctica), and Austral Cinclodes (Cinclodes patagonicus), adding more life and diversity to the island. Magdalena Island, as a refuge for these species, makes it a great destination for bird watchers visiting the region. At sunset, we departed from Punta Arenas, slowly navigating the Strait of Magellan, accompanied by whales with their blows, cormorants, skuas, Magellanic Penguins, and gulls.

On February 22, we began in the Argentine Sea heading towards the Falkland Islands. The sea was calm, but the temperatures were lower. We spent the entire day navigating and enjoying the birds. The most exciting part was as we approached the islands. Hundreds of Prions at sunset delighted our view. The Grey-backed Storm-Petrels (Garrodia nereis) surprised us for the first time and were quite a challenge for observation and photography, as their small size, light color, and quick movements close to the water made them blend in with the waves. The Black-browed Albatrosses, one of the most common species in the Argentine Sea, accompanied us throughout the journey, becoming even more common near the islands, where one of their breeding colonies is located.

February 23 was a day full of emotions. We woke up having breakfast while looking at the Falkland Islands, disembarked from the ship, and set foot on that land, walking through it. We got to know its birds, plants, waters, and winds. We were greeted by the Falkland Steamer-Ducks (Tachyeres brachypterus), always in pairs, along the shores. A small group of Crested Ducks (Lophonetta specularoides) also accompanied us. Common Shelducks (Chloephaga picta) walked through the streets of Stanley. We decided to take an excursion that highlighted the nature of the islands. We began by descending into Whalebone Cove, a small bay where the wreck of the Lady Elizabeth, a cargo ship that sank in 1914, is located, known for its relatively intact structure over the years. There, we spotted familiar species that became our first records for the Falkland Islands: Black-crowned Night-Herons (Muscisaxicola maclovianus), Double-banded Plovers (Charadrius falklandicus), Southern Black Oystercatchers (Haematopus leucopodus), and Cinnamon-breasted Plovers. Additionally, we heard a Grassland Sparrow (Anthus correndera) in the nearby prairie. Several Falkland Steamer-Ducks were also present. Continuing along the path, we encountered other birds, such as Chiloe Wigeons (Chloephaga hybrida), Black-crowned Night-Herons (Nycticorax nycticorax), Common Shelducks, Grass Wrens (Cistothorus platensis), more Black-crowned Night-Herons, and more Falkland Steamer-Ducks. The trail led us to Gypsy Cove, a place that surprised us with the incredible Caribbean color of the water, an austral Caribbean. There, on the white sands, walked some Magellanic Penguins, and just meters from the path, there were several other penguins standing still, molting their plumage. After contemplating those landscapes, we continued walking, and we were again surprised by the scenery at Yorke Bay, a much larger bay with the same aquamarine tones of the beaches, with white sands, and a pair of King Penguins (Aptenodytes patagonicus) sleeping. We ended the day with the image of those dreamlike landscapes and the emotions that came from exploring a piece of the Falkland Islands. We returned to the ship, and as we set sail, our birdwatching continued. We encountered a large colony of Gentoo Penguins (Pygoscelis papua) on a beach of the islands, and the Black-browed Albatrosses, Dark Petrels (Ardenna grisea), and Common Giant Petrels (Macronectes giganteus) accompanied us heading south.

February 24 began with different emotions than those of the Falkland Islands: wondering how it would feel to cross the famous Drake Passage, the sea that separates South America from Antarctica and is known for being one of the stormiest waters on the planet. To our surprise, the crossing was very calm, with little wind and few waves, but the sea never ceases to surprise us. Two young Wandering Albatrosses (Diomedea exulans) appeared before us for the first time, filling the heart of every bird watcher, reviving that famous phrase: “Now I belong to a higher cult among mortals, I have seen the Albatross,” not to feel superior, but to be amazed by the presence of one of the largest birds in the world that lives in such an environment and that few on the planet have the fortune to see with their own eyes. The giant Wandering Albatross was accompanied by small Grey-headed Petrels (Pterodroma mollis), Broad-billed Prions (Pachyptila desolata), and tiny Storm Petrels (Oceanites oceanicus) and Black-bellied Storm Petrels (Fregetta tropica). The crossing of the Drake Passage was very calm for us in terms of waves and wind, and the size of the ship made the movement feel less pronounced, but it was very entertaining and lively in terms of the bird species observed.

February 25 was one of the most exciting days, alongside the day in the Falkland Islands, as we woke up navigating the waters of the Antarctic Peninsula. We decided to go out on deck with the very first light of day, and we were surprised by a small flock of Cape Petrels (Daption capense), one of the most beautiful pelagic species with their contrasting white and dark brown colors. The birds followed the ship's wake and danced in the air, occasionally landing on the water before taking flight again. A spectacle for anyone, not just for bird watchers. On the way to Elephant Island, the first icebergs began to appear, bringing the Antarctic dream to life. The air was getting colder, but the waters remained calm, with the changing landscapes of Antarctica, between cloudy and sunny skies, and snowflakes falling for brief moments. During the Antarctic journey, we did not disembark from the ship; instead, we did what is called a "scenic cruise," moving through the areas at very low speed, allowing time to contemplate the landscapes and the animals.

Upon arriving at Elephant Island, our first stop was at Point Wild, where we were told the story of Ernest Shackleton, his famous expedition to Antarctica from 1914 to 1917, and his survival story after his ship, the Endurance, became trapped in the ice and sank. There, we also found a large colony of Chinstrap Penguins (Pygoscelis antarcticus), and to our surprise, not just one, but two Common Giant Petrels of the white morph approached us. We did not expect it to be so easy to observe this morph, which is almost exclusive to Antarctica, so our adventure in search of Antarctic birds aboard a ship that was unconventional for this type of activity, given its large size and height, began to feel magical.

The second and third stops on Elephant Island were more fleeting, but we always maintained a slow navigation speed, first passing by Cape Valentine and ending at Cape Lookout, before heading south along the Antarctic Peninsula and crossing the Bransfield Strait and the Gerlache Strait. Along the way, we left behind the Cape Petrels, but the beautiful Silver Petrels (Fulmarus glacialoides) joined us, accompanying the ship in the same manner. We were surprised by the Snow Petrels (Pagodroma nivea) with their small size, dancing over the waves like the Storm Petrels, shining in a landscape as white as they were. The Light-mantled Albatrosses (Phoebetria palpebrata) surprised us; after wishing for them for so long, there they were, with fleeting appearances but enough to admire them. The icebergs, with their deep and indescribable colors and always different shapes, also accompanied our journey. We were sailing through Antarctica and observing its birds, and neither our eyes nor our hearts could yet believe it.

On February 26, our destination was Paradise Bay, said to be one of the most beautiful places in Antarctica. And it truly was. Mountains speckled with snowy whites and browns, giant icebergs, and small fragments of ice floating with the rhythm of the water. “You have to look at the ice, because the penguins are always perched up there,” they said. One Gentoo Penguin, two Gentoo Penguins, dozens of Gentoo Penguins appeared, not only on the ice but also swimming. The first Southern Black-backed Gulls appeared in Antarctica, along with Subantarctic Skuas (Catharacta antarctica), Polar Skuas (Catharacta maccormicki), and Black-bellied Storm Petrels. And if we mention the mammals, the Antarctic Fur Seals (Arctocephalus gazella) were very common, resting on the ice, and the Humpback Whales (Balaenoptera novaeangliae) added some sound to that deep silence with their blows.

Paradise Bay did not disappoint, neither in its landscape nor in its wildlife. Dozens of Gentoo Penguins, Antarctic Terns (Sterna vittata), Antarctic Cormorants (Leucocarbo bransfieldensis), and Southern Black-backed Gulls brought life to the journey, while Humpback Whales put on a show in front of us, and a Crabeater Seal (Lobodon carcinophaga) looked at us plump as the route showed us the scientific bases Presidente Gabriel González Videla, belonging to Chile, and the Brown Antarctic Base, belonging to Argentina. The day ended as we resumed our northward course, not before bidding farewell to the Grey-headed Albatrosses (Thalassarche chrysostoma) and the giant icebergs and glaciers.

February 27 awaited us with the return to the South American continent, crossing the Drake Passage. Would it show us its stormy waters this time? The answer was "no." Once again, it was calm, with a few more waves and wind than the first time, but not enough to reveal its true fame. A smooth return, with the polar cold becoming increasingly familiar to us, heading towards the port of Ushuaia. The birds present included Grey-headed Petrels, Prions, and Grey-headed Albatrosses. The day ended while still crossing the Drake Passage, leaving us with a dreamlike sunset.

On February 28, we started the day having breakfast while contemplating the city of Ushuaia. The navigation had ended, and since Ushuaia was already familiar territory for us, we took a short walk along the waterfront to record the common birds of the area, such as Grey Gulls (Larus scoresbii), Southern Black-backed Gulls, Shelducks, Imperial Cormorants, South American Terns, and Austral Remolineras. Then, we decided to enjoy some of the comforts of the ship, as our trip was primarily focused on bird watching, and the deck had become our favorite spot.

Without a doubt, this trip was the realization of a dream, the dream of every adventurer and bird and wildlife observer. Despite the challenges and the effort it entailed, every moment was worth it. Being attentive to possibilities, researching, and knowing the options that led us there was essential. Although the ship was not exclusive for Antarctic wildlife observation, we shared the excitement with other travelers who, like us, sought to spot those birds that became "lifers." The experience of seeing whales just a few meters away and contemplating stunning landscapes left us with unforgettable memories. With these words, we aim to convey a bit of what we experienced and to highlight that there are more accessible options to explore the Argentine Sea, the Falkland Islands, and Antarctica, along with their birds and mammals. The great height of the vessel may be a disadvantage, but if one is dedicated to this, the animals can be seen, and that is what matters: seeing them, observing them, and getting to know them. We hope this account inspires others to pursue and insist on realizing their own dreams of adventure and bird watching, and to appreciate the beauty of nature in its fullest expression.

To see all the species recorded during the complete tour: https://www.ecoregistros.org/site_en/checklist.php?id=5639